Sunday, September 23, 2012

September Gold

It's hard to believe it is already fall!  The aspens are peaking, the nights are cold and soon there will be snow in the mountains.  Love, love, love this time of year!  Even the smell of decaying leaves makes me nostalgic.  Here are some pics of what I've been up to the past couple of weekends...



Hike to Devil's Head Fire Lookout- the only lookout still operating in Colorado.

Views from the lookout with an old high school friend.


Sunset in Victor

Drive near Fairplay

Sunset on aspens

Hike to Jones Park near Colorado Springs- a must in the fall!





It doesn't get much better than this!

Monday, September 10, 2012

27 Hours in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness


What to do when all the popular campgrounds are booked and the resorts and hotels have jacked up their prices for the busy holiday weekend?   Why, just head out into one of many nearby designated wilderness areas and pitch a tent for free, away from crowds or traffic!  Jerry and I decided to do just that for Labor Day and planned a one night backpacking trip in the Sangre de Cristo Wilderness.   It would be a two hour drive to the trailhead, and 12 miles roundtrip with a 3200 foot elevation gain to South Colony Lakes.  With our packs full of all of our less than top of the line gear, we trudged our way up, eventually reaching treeline at 12,000 feet, and pitched our tent on a flat ridge (did I mention we were  above treeline and completely exposed?  More on that later...).  When backpacking for only one night you can afford to carry such luxuries as aseptically packed Indian curry, instant Pad Thai, and rum and Coke.  It is amazing how good these things taste in the mountains after a strenuous hike.
As it turns out, camping above treeline is not such a great idea when the weather turns out less than perfect.  No sooner had we started dinner when the rain started and the temperature dropped about 20 degrees.  We quickly moved our cooking gear into the tent (ignoring the warning on the Sterno canister) and proceeded to finish our dinner "indoors".   Usually storms blow through quickly in the mountains, but this time it wasn't letting up.  That night we fearfully laid wide awake, listening to driving rain, cold wind, hail, blinding lightning, echoing thunder and no so distant rockslides.  At times it appeared the entire tent was going to flatten completely and suffocate us.  Sometime in the middle of night I saw some straying lights directed at our tent, not brief enough to be lightning.  In my half asleep, oxygen deprived stupor I thought for moment it might be a search and rescue team, coming to save us off our death ridge.

But we did survive.  The weather eventually cleared mid morning and once the sun came back out it warmed enough to motivate us to make some hot coffee (thank you Starbucks instant Columbian!) and totally yummy maple syrup oatmeal.  The scenery and hike back was lovely and the cold, filtered water from the mountain streams reinvigorated us.  We passed by nice, sheltered campsites below treeline that we had passed in our haste the day before.  We both decided that would be our spot next time.  Despite our uncomfortable and scary night, our little adventure was a success.  There is something very pleasing and liberating about walking into a wilderness, carrying on your back everything you need for survival.  On one of the busiest summer weekends we had managed that, as well as some solitude and seclusion.
Our starting point- the car is actually parked halfway down this road

Up and up into the mountains and wilderness

South Colony Lake

Crestone Needle in the background

 




Our campsite above treeline



Indian curry in the mountains- yum!

Our dinner quickly moved indoors when the weather turned sour

Filtered mountain water, it doesn't get any better!



A big reward in Westcliffe on the drive home

Colorado summer storms

Airing out our feet for the drive home

Serendipity in the San Juans


While the West San Juan Mountains are tucked away in the southwest corner of Colorado, they feel like the heart and soul of the state.  The towns- Telluride, Ouray, Ridgway and Silverton are a mix of old and new- depreciating mine shafts next to high speed gondolas and ski lifts, luxurious shops along with rustic saloons, locals among tourists.  Telluride is the most exclusive of the bunch, clearly operated by a tight knit group of (mostly) wealthy locals, but still feels approachable and heartfelt to outsiders.  Ouray ("you-RAY") is simply stunning, there is no way around it. Mountains tower over the historic buildings on all sides, verifying its nickname as the Switzerland of America.  Ridgway, filming location of the original True Grit, has a charm of its own, nestled on green ranching land with equally impressive mountain views and a smaller, sprawling historic center.  Silverton is my kind of Colorado- a no frills, efficiently tucked Main Street with welcoming historic hotels, saloons and shops, mostly occupied by friendly locals donning western hats and boots, for a purpose, not for show.
What all these towns share are the majestic San Juans- arguably the most alluring mountain range in Colorado.  From each of the towns mentioned, you are not far from incredibly impressive hikes to jaw dropping turquoise, jade and cerulean alpine lakes, meadows of wildflowers resembling a Crayola crayon box, and thundering, soul stirring waterfalls.  At times  I would cross over a ridge, and almost not believe what I was seeing.  Most memorable was my approach to Island Lake, nestled at a gasping 12,400 feet.  While a good handful of hikers were found roaming around Ice Basin Lake, a slightly further trek to Island Lake- a few hundred feet higher after crossing a rushing river and meadow, was rewarded with solitude.  There I was, looking down at a glistening jade beauty tucked away above treeline in an alpine wonderland, and I had it all to myself.  I stood, paralyzed, and watched in wonder; one of those serendipitous moments in life I will always remember.
Views from our VRBO rental in Ridgway

Sunset from our rental- an actual working cattle ranch




Hike to Blue Lake


Blue Lake



Ahhh... Ouray!






Hike to Hope Lake




Hope Lake







Stopping for a latte in Telluride (the only thing I could afford in town)





Taking the free gondola to ski village

Cows at our rental

Hike to Ice Basin and Island Lakes



Ice Basin Lake- 12,400 feet









Yellow bellied marmot- they love the tundra above treeline


My ultimate favorite- Island Lake

 





Silverton, Colorado

Stopping for a hearty dinner after a hard hike