Where Prairie Meets Forest- Wind Cave National Park, South
Dakota
"I was born on the prairies where the wind blew free and there was nothing to break the light of the sun. I was born where there were no enclosures." -Geronimo
Our Volvo had been fixed and it was time to retrieve it from
the Black Hills of South Dakota (I am beginning to refer to the summer of 2018
as the summer of South Dakota). For a
change of pace, we decided this time we would camp, away from the July crowds,
at Elk Mountain Campground in Wind Cave National Park. I had read that this first come, first serve
campground has only ever filled up once, during the 2017 solar eclipse, but I
was a bit hesitant to show up on July 4th with no reservations. We didn’t need to worry, because when we
arrived late afternoon we found an ideal spot open in the tent-only loop, with
a lot of space, privacy, and shade.
There were two levels to our campsite- the bottom level with a large
picnic table and fire-pit, and a short trail up leading to a large flat area in
the trees for our tent with views of the surrounding forest. The air was cool and breezy and I felt so
happy to not be sweating, especially as the campground did not have
showers. Wind Cave National Park offers
cave tours that are fairly popular among Black Hills tourists, but the campground
is quiet and often overlooked. We spent
the evening setting up our campsite, building a fire (no fire restrictions
currently in South Dakota!) and teaching the boys the art of attempting to
impale themselves and each other with flaming hot sugar sticks roasting marshmallows. Later that evening we put out our fire and
walked to the campground amphitheater for a 9 pm ranger talk about bison. Strangely, the boys were not as enthusiastic as
we were about sitting down silently in the dark (ha!) and we weren’t able to
stay long, but at least were able to burn off some energy on the walk back. I think still we might have been the last
tent to go dark as it was close to midnight and dead silent when we finally got
everyone to sleep. We all slept well
that night and it was just cold enough to bundle up in our sleeping bags, but
not uncomfortably so.
Stopping for a picnic in Nebraska |
Setting up camp- Wind Cave NP |
When we woke up, the sky was overcast and cool. It was perfect coffee drinking weather as we
enjoyed the late morning at our quiet site.
Many of the other campers had left for the day or packed up
completely. After lunch we left for a
scenic drive to pick up the Volvo, taking Iron Mountain Road to Rapid City,
which offers beautiful views of the hills and of Mount Rushmore. We considered driving into the park to see
the faces up close, but after the solitude of our campground, the town of
Keystone and the hoards of tourists heading to the Mount Rushmore entrance was
not appealing, so we enjoyed the views by ourselves from afar.
Sleepy eyes |
Nothing better than a good cup of coffee when camping! |
Iron Mountain Road tunnel views of Mount Rushmore |
After picking up the Volvo we drove two cars back to the
park and stopped at the visitor center to hike the Prairie Trail, a short 1
mile loop that winds through stunning waves of silvery green grasses and
wildflowers. From distance the prairie
looks very homogeneous, but up close there is a wealth of diversity. I realized you really need to get into the
prairie, up and close, to fully appreciate its beauty.
After dinner we attempted another ranger talk about the
history of the prairie and later spent a (finally)
relaxing hour sipping wine and viewing
the stars from our campfire (minus a brief moment of panic when a deer running right by our tent in the dark was mistaken for a charging buffalo). Our first
camping trip as a family of four felt like a success.
After another restful night, we enjoyed breakfast and packed
up, ready to take the Natural Entrance Tour of Wind Cave that leaves from the
visitor center. I’ve heard that all
caves are different and from my limited experiences I would have to agree. Carlsbad Caverns in New Mexico could be
described as majestic and grand, while the beauty of Wind Cave was found in the
small details- intricate boxwork patterns that filled the walls and ceilings
(boxwork is a rare cave phenomenon found in “dry” caves), and hidden pockets of
shimmering white and rusty gold crystals. It
is a beautiful cave, and we enjoyed spending a couple of hours in the cool, dark,
underground, as the outside temperatures were increasing, along with the
humidity.
Beautiful boxwork |
On Saturday it was time to drive our two cars home, but no
trip to the Southern Black Hills would be complete without a stop at Cascade
Falls. The water was especially inviting
when we arrived, with temperatures flirting with 100 degrees including some noticeable humidity
(at least humid by Colorado standards). We
enjoyed the numerous cool, clear pools for a good hour, had our last picnic
lunch of the trip, and started our long drive home on Highway 71 that would
take us out of South Dakota, through the plains of Nebraska, and into Colorado
where we would cut west. I savored
numerous true crime podcasts while the boys (mostly) entertained
themselves. It was my kind of driving- wide
open views and very few other vehicles (despite it being a holiday weekend!), something I almost always prefer over
the busyness and stress of summer interstate driving.
Walk to Cascade Falls |
Nebraska roads |