Monday, September 10, 2012

Serendipity in the San Juans


While the West San Juan Mountains are tucked away in the southwest corner of Colorado, they feel like the heart and soul of the state.  The towns- Telluride, Ouray, Ridgway and Silverton are a mix of old and new- depreciating mine shafts next to high speed gondolas and ski lifts, luxurious shops along with rustic saloons, locals among tourists.  Telluride is the most exclusive of the bunch, clearly operated by a tight knit group of (mostly) wealthy locals, but still feels approachable and heartfelt to outsiders.  Ouray ("you-RAY") is simply stunning, there is no way around it. Mountains tower over the historic buildings on all sides, verifying its nickname as the Switzerland of America.  Ridgway, filming location of the original True Grit, has a charm of its own, nestled on green ranching land with equally impressive mountain views and a smaller, sprawling historic center.  Silverton is my kind of Colorado- a no frills, efficiently tucked Main Street with welcoming historic hotels, saloons and shops, mostly occupied by friendly locals donning western hats and boots, for a purpose, not for show.
What all these towns share are the majestic San Juans- arguably the most alluring mountain range in Colorado.  From each of the towns mentioned, you are not far from incredibly impressive hikes to jaw dropping turquoise, jade and cerulean alpine lakes, meadows of wildflowers resembling a Crayola crayon box, and thundering, soul stirring waterfalls.  At times  I would cross over a ridge, and almost not believe what I was seeing.  Most memorable was my approach to Island Lake, nestled at a gasping 12,400 feet.  While a good handful of hikers were found roaming around Ice Basin Lake, a slightly further trek to Island Lake- a few hundred feet higher after crossing a rushing river and meadow, was rewarded with solitude.  There I was, looking down at a glistening jade beauty tucked away above treeline in an alpine wonderland, and I had it all to myself.  I stood, paralyzed, and watched in wonder; one of those serendipitous moments in life I will always remember.
Views from our VRBO rental in Ridgway

Sunset from our rental- an actual working cattle ranch




Hike to Blue Lake


Blue Lake



Ahhh... Ouray!






Hike to Hope Lake




Hope Lake







Stopping for a latte in Telluride (the only thing I could afford in town)





Taking the free gondola to ski village

Cows at our rental

Hike to Ice Basin and Island Lakes



Ice Basin Lake- 12,400 feet









Yellow bellied marmot- they love the tundra above treeline


My ultimate favorite- Island Lake

 





Silverton, Colorado

Stopping for a hearty dinner after a hard hike

Sunday, September 9, 2012

Between a Rock and a Steep Place


Black Canyon of the Gunnison is like a smaller Grand Canyon without the crowds.  Sheer walls of black granite rise up 2250 feet from the Gunnison River, and similar to the Grand Canyon, a very long drive separates the north and south rims.  Unlike the Grand Canyon, you can literarily walk up to the ranger station and obtain a permit on the same day as you wish to hike down into the canyon.  This is exactly what my dad and I decided to do- hike 2000 feet down to the Gunnison River within a miles distance- an extremely steep and precarious feat.  Prior to being handed your free permits, the rangers take out a large binder for you to review- a collection of pictures depicting all the dangers and possible ways to die or be seriously hurt on the voyage to the bottom of the canyon- from rockslides, drop-offs, mountain lions, hypothermia, and dehydration to less severe but still annoying poison ivy, stinging nettle, sunburn, scrapes, bruises and twisted ankles.   They seem to do their best at trying to talk you out of this foolish hike, but I think that is just to scare off the weak and timid.  Dad and I started our trek around 8 am, the trail starting with a slight grade and then quickly changing into a steep and treacherous scramble.  At times the "hike" down is so steep you must use a 100+ foot chain to lower your body down the canyon walls, virtually repelling.  We would hear rock slides above us and wonder what sort of creature was capable of loosening the large rocks.  Every step had to be calculated, with all possible dangerous outcomes considered, and decisions would have to made, as should I veer to the left and risk a misstep and one hundred foot tumble, or should I stray towards the slightly less steep right, while trying to avoid that large dangling stinging nettle branch (a plant that is covered in hollow stinging hairs which act like hypodermic needles, injecting stinging histamine into your skin if touched).  I quickly noticed my sweat was not just a result of the physical exertion, but from a constant nervousness and fear, similar to what I've experienced while rock climbing on steep portions of those man-made rock climbing walls.  It was not what I'd consider a relaxing walk in the woods.  But, we did make it to the bottom, rinsed our dusty feet in the cold rushing river, had lunch, rehydrated, and started our trek back out.  Climbing out was much easier for me.  It was steep and exhausting, but at least I felt fairly certain my body was only going to follow as far as my next foot placement.  About five hours later, dirty, bruised, and stinking, we checked back into the ranger station to let them know we had made it out.  We gazed out from the visitor center, down into the canyon, looking at the only view the majority of visitors would see- from the top.  That day, we were warriors.
Blue Mesa Reservoir, near Gunnison

Summer Storm


Black Canyon of the Gunnison National Park



Looking Down

Yes, we hiked down there!

The Painted Wall

At the Top

On the way down, holding onto the chain for dear life

At the bottom!